South Korea and beyond 2023

Legend

Cycling
Boat
Taxi
Hitchhiking
Plane

Kaimai Road camp drop off, New Zealand ‐ Nov 17, 2023

13.2 km

We were offered a lift from our hosts back down the hill as they were concerned for our safety on the highway.
State Highway 29 ‐ Nov 16, 2023

65.2 km

Te Aroha Cycling up the Kaimai Road to the Eco camp, biggest hill on a highway on the North Island (apparently). Our hosts at the top of the hill were very impressed that we made it up on the bikes. We felt that we had earnt some adventure points that day!
Te Aroha ‐ Nov 15, 2023

65.8 km

Dickson Holiday park to Te Ahora Beauview Cottage Equestrian Ranch
Victoria Street ‐ Nov 14, 2023

58.3 km

Blackberry Flats to Dickson Holiday Park Kaiaua Cycling.
Blackberry Flats Campsite ‐ Nov 12, 2023

56 km

Omana cliff camp to Blackberry Flats. cycled to Blackberry flats. Loud music first night from someone staying in nearby house. Only ones on campsite.
Ōmana Regional Park ‐ Nov 9, 2023

Stayed at beachlands for 2 nights. Water turned off had a dribbly shower. Turns out the water was turned off! Bird sounds are something else here, so complex.
Pine Harbour Marina
Downtown Pier 9

Cycled into Auckland, bought present, send everything off in the post. Caught ferry to beachlands, bought some food and set up camp.
Avondale Motor Park ‐ Nov 7, 2023

18.6 km

Had jet lag and slept until 10. Put bikes together and didn't get into town until about 4. Went to bike shop for a new camera bag, cycled home. Went to supermarket Pack n save cooked sausage and mash! Was delicious.
Auckland International Airport

Flight was ok, difficult to sleep though. Food was nice. Arrived at Auckland and decided to get a taxi to campsite. Stayed in a cabin which had seen better days! Too tired to cook.
Tokyo Port Ferry Terminal, Japan ‐ Nov 2, 2023

640.5 km

Got to Tokyo at 5.30am and cycled into the city. We looked over a bridge and saw a huge fish market at work, was fascinating. Rode through streets all day until 5.30pm until Jo and Nic got home. Saw the royal palace, the stadium, scramble crossing, Tokyo station, and lots of other places. Had a lovely evening meal together.
Ferry port Tokushima ‐ Nov 1, 2023

5.3 km

Ferry port Tokushima. Cycled to the ferry port and boarded at 11.30. we were very excited to get our own cabin and settled into 18 hours of enforced rest. Had an Onsen on the boat watching the sun go down.
Nakatorimachi 2-chome ‐ Oct 30, 2023

18.7 km

Bit of an amble into town, sitting by the river waiting to check in to the hostel. Hostel was luxury. Twin room, our own shower. So tired had a takeaway and watched a film I bed on the laptop! The pilgrimage of Harold Fry part of which was filmed in Stroud
Karuizawa camp ‐ Oct 28, 2023

7.5 km

Karuizawa camp with SkyTower. We found the sinks, but porterloos weren't great. We need to hang around for a bit as our ferry from tokushima isn't until 1 Nov. Fortunately we were given directions to another camp place just up the road which turned out to be our favourite one! It's mainly old wooden shacks by the river surrounded by mountains. There is a small patch of grass right at the end where we could camp. It's out of season so we pretty much had it to ourselves. The lovely lady owner/m [...]
anager sold us some firewood and said we could use the fire pit from one of the chalets, we used the loo and the washing up area too, it was perfect! Had a fire both nights and nearly ran the vending machine dry of beer on the second night. Steven has a hangover today! Spent time cleaning the bikes, reading, and even had a dance at one point. There was some very errie screams throughout the evening, found out it was the seika deer.
鮎喰川 New-Ta Riverside Camp ‐ Oct 27, 2023

13.4 km

Tokushima to Riverside Camp. Woke up to a beautiful view and sunny day. Had double breakfast and coffee. Packed up and cycled through small towns and main roads. Was quite easy but we were still tired! An enormous black cloud came over the sky about 3pm and it started raining, the free campsite we rode to didn't exist. Luckily we found another one 13 km away, saw some intestines on the path on the way up! Really cold tonight. No showers or sinks.
Aizumi

35.5 km

Mima City Cycling
Mima ‐ Oct 26, 2023

30.5 km

Had a few rest days on a free site by river. Watched kingfishers, had an amazing ramen at the service station, booked flights to Vietnam in family mart. On 26thHad a gentle 30km along the road/river only a couple of hills to deal with. Steep one up the the campsite which we pushed. Campsite is part of the hotel next door, a bit pricey but we had a bath included. Went to the supermarket and saw a kitten zig zagging across the bridge, a man in a french bakery van stopped to rescue it but the pu [...]
ss was quite wild and bit and scratched him so he had to drive on. Steven went to try another rescue but the puss ran off on the edge of the bridge and we lost sight of him. Steven was worriesd and we both felt shaken up by the experience. Came back and had a restorative shower and hot bath in the hotel. Cooked up home made egg drop for tea.
Higashimiyoshi ‐ Oct 23, 2023

44.2 km

Had our favourite breakfast of bread fried in butter with an egg and a slice of cheese (sounds bad but so delicious). Left lovely campsite at 10.30. Cycled up towards the mountains, was quite tough to start with but we had no idea about how tough it was going to be. The path turned into a very steep river bed and we had to push for about 2 hours. It was so hard!! Eventually got to the top, but no view. Very fast and bumpy down hill. Saw the view at last. Still had 17 miles to go. Found campsit [...]
e, not that many miles but tough day.
Kaitaniike ‐ Oct 22, 2023

29.2 km

Niihama City Cycling. Woke up from windy campsite. Steven didn't sleep much as there were some teenagers being loud all night. He went for a wee and they surrounded him, "I'm japaanese gay!" one said. We packed up quickly as it was cold and went to the nearest family mart for coffee. Ate our overnight oats and went to a supermarket to stock up. Had a lovely cycle ride through towns and countryside. A couple of hills but not too bad. Got to our campsite by 2ish. The manager was so lovely and dr [...]
ove Steven down to the convenience store to get me some shampoo and conditioner. We had a shower and cooked dinner. The manager gave us chairs and a light.
Niihama ‐ Oct 21, 2023

44.4 km

Imabari City Cycling. Cycled to a free campsite, Steve had a picture taken with a scout leader. We camped up and it was very windy. Cooked dinner in the dark. Had a video call with Karen and Leon to say goodbye to Leon.
桜井海浜ふれあい広場 ‐ Oct 17, 2023

38.2 km

Imabari City Cyclingstayed at a free campsite by the sea. Was very relaxing. Went to post office, bought new sleeping bags, pillows and a light. Went skinny-dipping one morning. Sorted out our bags and reduced the weight.
Michikajima Camping Site ‐ Oct 16, 2023

52.5 km

Back to the Michikajima Camping Site16 Met an American couple and their daughter cycling together for a year.
Kaneyoshi Pier

5.8 km
Marine Youth Centre ‐ Oct 14, 2023

17.7 km
chì qí

8.7 km
Setoda Port

4.5 km
Setoda Sunset beach ‐ Oct 13, 2023

16.2 km
Utena Camping Ground ‐ Oct 12, 2023

18.9 km

Had a very chatty day today! Stopped at the convenience store (these places are lifesavers! Spotless toilets and fresh coffee). Had a chat with a nice cyclist from Germany who shared stories of his cycle touring in Iran and Australia. Then a couple from America found my phone I'd left in the loos! So had a little chat with them about their trip. Then later on at a rest stop we met a German couple who live in NZ. They invited us to come and stay when we get to NZ! So lovely. Cycled to campsite wh [...]
ich was out of season so no toilets or water, but had the most beautiful peaceful views. It was heaven.

+11
Michikajima Camping Site ‐ Oct 11, 2023

9.3 km

Taking it easy for the next 2 weeks up and down the Shimanami Kaido. Found a free campsite which had a lovely view. It was quite busy with a group of guys fishing, other travellers and men camping on their own. Was quite noisy, even at night with all the snoring! Steven took some photos of men with their scooters.

+6
Tomourakume camping ground ‐ Oct 9, 2023

26 km

Found this beautiful campsite by the sea. All a bit run down, but was part of the charm! An insect walked up my leg in the shower. Amazing views. Our camping neighbours invited us for dinner, had so many courses of little bowls of food, steak, fresh anchovy, mushrooms, pork and cabbage, king prawns. Stayed here 2 nights.

+37
大角海浜公園 ‐ Oct 8, 2023

+8
Kashima Island ‐ Oct 7, 2023

16 km

Took a gentle ride up to our next camping spot which is on a tiny island. You couldn't take bikes on the little boat so we locked up and loaded up our stuff into a handcart, hope we're not on our way to hell. Lols!

+7
Matsuyama

A fancy new ferry took us over to Matsuyama. Journey was about 3 hours. Had some lunch and a coffee.

+8
Hiroshima ‐ Oct 5, 2023

45.2 km
Iwakuni ‐ Oct 4, 2023

46.1 km

Rode into Hiroshima along the main road on the pavement. Started early so got to the city in good time. Found our airbnb and got the washing machine on straight away! Went for a look around the Peace park and had a okonomiyaki with the locals.
hóng~ke bāngkyanpu chǎng ‐ Oct 3, 2023

17.1 km

Tokoyama to ikuwani Had Japanese hotel breakfast. Went for a coffee and to download maps for today. Had mocha smoothie, was totes delicious. Long but interesting cycle through the back streets and country lanes. Rode in really hot weather to find the free campsite was a small park in town. We asked 2 people about camping and they both said it wasn't allowed. So tired and hot, the next camping was 20km away up 3 hills, we couldn't face it. It was already 3.30pm. Found a converted shipping cont [...]
ainer hotel for a last min price. Was so nice

+4
Tokuyama ‐ Oct 2, 2023

62.7 km

Very hot when we left, beautiful lake and surroundings. Found a dog by the side of the road, rescued him. Took him to a garage and the police came to pick him up. Cycled a long way to find the campsite had closed down and our phones had all run out of battery. Used the outside plugs at 7/11 convenience store to charge up and find hotel.

+6
Tokiwa Lake camp ground ‐ Oct 1, 2023

30.6 km

Woke up a bit later, left a bit later. Almost left, decided to do a zombie film in the grounds before we left, ended up staying for lunch and left about 1pm. Easy cycle to town, and straight to our first Onsen. Like a public bath with health benefits. Was very relaxing and we feel very clean, although had to put our cycling clothes back on afterwards. Found the camp site another great free one. There are a big group at one end who are having a lecture and a lovely sing along.
Itonechiku (Zombie) Park ‐ Sep 30, 2023

57 km

Long day today. Started a new breakfast routine of overnight oats, as suggested by Mook our warm showers host. They are delicious. We also cook up rice for lunch which we have with a tin of sardines/tuna, or an egg. Cycled to the tunnel connecting the island we were on to Honshu. 1km tunnel under the sea. Started to rain towards the end of the ride. Arrived at the free campground which was an abandoned recreation place. Looked quite errie but another family were there, so was ok. Was a great sp [...]
ot. The kids came over at dinner and gave us pork kebabs from their bbq.

+2
Kitakyushu ‐ Sep 29, 2023

39.1 km

Followed a cycle path along the ocean was so beautiful and we really enjoyed ourselves. Felt like we'd earned a lovely day. Stopped for coffee at a tiny place called sac sac. Found our camp site which was quite expensive for not much! Made a shade with the tarp. It was opposite a park with swings in a circle which looked quite creepy!

+3
Fukutsu ‐ Sep 27, 2023

44 km
Hakata Port International Terminal

Got off ferry with Josh and went to find a camping shop to buy fuel. Bought him a coffee and a donut. Said goodbye and cycled off in opposite directions. Rode through the city and to the seaside! Just on a big hill at the end of the day we met an American couple, James and Liz. We went to a camp site together but it was closed, although they did sell us some beer. Rode on to another place, up a very steep hill. Settled in a great spot with fabulous views. Had dinner with them.

+11

Rest day

Decided to stay for another night and have a rest day. Said goodbye to James and Liz who were on their way to Korea. Went for a ride without bags, was lovely as too to stay around the campsite. Conqu...
Busan International Passenger Terminal, South Korea ‐ Sep 26, 2023

20 km

Rode to ferry terminal. Stopped at bike shop to buy spacers and new gloves. Had an iced vanilla latte and flat white sitting by the side of the road. Went to terminal, just like being at a airport. Had to take off all bags to be scanned and throw away fuel. Met a Korean guy with a red and black bike that looked like a spaceship. Also met Balla and his wife from India who were living in Busan. And Josh a young chap from Scotland. Had some drinks with the lads and went to our dormitory.

+5
Sasang ‐ Sep 25, 2023

13 km
nagdong-gang hagudug jeonmangdae

25 km

Campsite was empty when we woke up. Got an early start and rode to Busan. Stopped for a boiled egg and coffee. Lady came up and asked us for an egg. Rode on and over a bridge to finish line!! We did it!! Met 2 American ladies Jo and Nadene. Jo gave me her gloves. Also a man called Richard who was American but lived in Korea. Went to car wash to wash bikes and went to lovely airbnb. Did 3 loads of washing and Hoose went out to get a takeaway.

+8
황산문화체육공원 ‐ Sep 24, 2023

56 km

Freezing in the night, I got up at 5 but it was still dark, went back to bed got up at 6.15, left camp at 7.15.

+7

Sunday dinner

Had a good ride but both very tired and achy now. Stopped to make coffee and boiled eggs, I said we needed an egg glove to eat them, Steven invented a tv series called Eggglove while we waited for the...
Gilgok-myeon ‐ Sep 23, 2023

43 km

Mook and Aggie made us toast!!! And butter!! And jam!! For breakfast. Home roasted coffee and overnight oatmeal. So lovely

+10

Homemade Ramen

Left about 9, already a hot day. Stopped for iced coffees and snacks from convenience store. Mook advised us to go via the road as it was a Saturday it would be quiet and we'd miss out the mountains....
Sejin-ri ‐ Sep 22, 2023

19 km

Left hotel about 10.30, had breakfast and coffee at cafe pascallini round the corner, egg and bulogi roll. Cycled back the way we came again, but missed out the very steep bit by the Buddhist temple. Got to biggest wetland in Korea. Took some time to enjoy the space. Found warm showers host place, Steve went off again to find beers, Torz had a shower and changed and waited for mook to come home. Had a lovely evening with Mook and Aggie and the really fluffy friendly dog called mooya. We talked [...]
about cycling, what they did for work, Brexit, Busan, pets and Slept on comfy beds.

+5
Eung-am-ri ‐ Sep 21, 2023

88 km

Left feeling clean and rested. It started raining again, rode to Deagu and the cycle path was closed got lost in the city. Bag fell off bike and had to cycle back 20km. Very long day.

+3

The long day

We were on our way to stay with someone who is part of Warm Showers, a network where cyclists put each other up for a night, but after riding for a few hours we were stopped short by a barrier across...
Waegwan-eup ‐ Sep 20, 2023

33 km

Cycled to our favourite restaurant chain, egg drop, had iced coffee and egg sandwich. Went to a Hyper market, bought lots of food. Ate Korean chicken snacks in the car park in the rain. More rain, lots and lots of rain. Asking the Comos for shelter again but no luck. Rode post a city campsite, which turned out to be somewhere people camp with their dogs. A bit above budget but so wet and tired we took it. It had underfloor heating and a kitten. Win win.

+11
Gumi-si ‐ Sep 18, 2023

57 km

Woke up early. The kind man brought us cups of coffee and give us a bottle of Korean wine. Hot weather, went over 4 bridges. Covered up against the sun completely. Met a Korean cyclist who told us to go the back roads to the campsite. Took forever, but saw some city. Campsite in Gumi, stayed for 2 nights as totally exhausted.

+5
sangjubo ‐ Sep 17, 2023

61 km

Had a lovely day cycling through the countryside. Very hot, lots more hills! Stopped for lunch and butterflies landed on our drying shoes. Arrived in town, no supermarket, no camping was open but found free camping in an motorhome car park. Steven bought 2 cans of cider from a roadside shop, which turned out to be Appletise. Man in motorhome advised us to move the tent as the rain was coming. He was very kind.

+6
Mungyeong-si ‐ Sep 16, 2023

26 km

The first hill climb and a second larger one on top.Raining in AM, had to wait for rain to stop Went into town for coffee Bus load of Korean cyclists got off their coach to meet us and find out what we were up to. They bought us Korean Cornettos and gave us power snacks! Went up massive hill, was very hard, lots of stopping but we made it. Went to mycheon ri. Very touristy More rain, very very wet. Found shelter in car park.

+3
Oncheon-ri ‐ Sep 15, 2023

Left the campsite and rode into the nearby city of Chungju-si. Another mini mega city (look small on the map, and turn out to be huge - clusters of massive skyscraper apartment blocks and 8 lanes of traffic). Paul Potts (him of Britain's Got Talent) is playing here in a concert hall nearby, if you ever wondered what he's up to these days. We needed to replenish our pannier pantry so started a hunt for a supermarket. Many convenience stores later, we found our first fancy hypermarket. Who knew S [...]
pam was so popular here? We stuffed our panniers full of cold beers, tins of tuna, noodles and Korean spice paste - Gochujung and got back on the cycle path. We met a lovely couple from Poland who were also doing the route, but with about 90% less stuff than us. They shared their biscuits and told us about the hot springs in Japan where we can get a bath and secretly wash our clothes. We cycled on and the rain really started to come down, we asked the cosmos for some shelter, with toilets. It delivered, we found a small park with a raised platform with a roof, except no toilets, but by that time we just needed to be dry and set up camp for the night.

+4

Camp set up Oncheon-ri
Chungju-si ‐ Sep 14, 2023

42.4 km

Great day in the saddle, perfect weather, a little cloudy and not too warm, but mainly no rain, so we had a nice dry day (the last for the next few as rain is on the way!)

A dry day in the saddle

Great day in the saddle, perfect weather, a little cloudy and not too warm, but mainly no rain, so we had a nice dry day (the last for the next few as rain is on the way!). Korean people are so kind....
Yeoju ‐ Sep 13, 2023

32 km

What a difference a day makes. The rain came down and down and down some more. Cycled all day with no let up from the weather.

Yeoju camp ground

What a difference a day makes. The rain came down and down and down some more. Cycled all day with no let up from the weather. Met a couple from The Netherlands, both cycling to Busan too. They had ma...
galsanjigugong-won ‐ Sep 12, 2023
갈산지구공원

42 km

First camping night in lovely public park with ensuite public loo and view of the mountains. Hot day in the saddle with some amazing stretches on the cycle path and it really felt we had actually started this cycle touring thing!

Wasn't born to follow.
Misa 1(il)-dong ‐ Sep 10, 2023

4 km

Went off the cycle path to find our Airbnb.

Seoul cycle path 2. (More interesting content to arrive soon!)

First day on the Cycle path Seoul

Walking the bikes across zebra crossing in Seoul.
Changu-dong

38 km

First day on the cycle path that we'll be following all the way to Busan. It's like a mini road for bicycles, with road markings, speed cameras, and no over taking stretches. Very busy as it was a Sunday.
Seoul ‐ Sep 8, 2023

4 km

Trip unexpectedly took a different turn as Steven came down with Covid and we had to self isolate for a few days. Cycled to an airbnb not far from the cycle path to recooperate.
Seoul ‐ Sep 5, 2023

Taxi to the hotel for the first couple of days to get acclimatized and put the bikes together!
Incheon International Airport, South Korea ‐ Sep 5, 2023

Landed at Incheon airport on Tuesday 5 September 2023, for our first stop in Seoul, South Korea.